Sizes

As you probably expected, size is the first thing you get to choose. In this category, building sizes begin at a 42-foot width and go up by 2’ for every larger building. The lengths start at 21’ and increase by 5’. For example, we have 42’×21’, 42’×26’, 42’×31’, 44’×21, 44×26, and so on. They can get as large as you want because there’s always the possibility of joining two buildings to form a larger one.

Color Options

Our color palette features over 15 different color choices. You can select a combination of several colors to achieve a spectacular look. The walls, roof, trims, and doors can all get separate paints. We want our customers to be able to customize as much as possible.

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  Black

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  Burgundy

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  Brown

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  Green Forest

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  Quaker Gray

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  Pewter Gray

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  Hawaiian Blue

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  White

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  Mocha Tan

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  Light Stone

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  Taupe

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  P. Beige

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  Barn Red

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  Clay

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  Galvalume

12 and 14 Gauge Framing

Our steel framings come in either 12-gauge or 14-gauge depending on the strength and sturdiness we are designing for. In metals, the lower the gauge, the higher the thickness. 14-gauge offers a minimum of approximately 0.070” sheet thickness while 12-gauge comes in at 0.098”, which is about 40% heavier.

12-gauge framing is better than 14-gauge at handling dynamic pressure. You can cut on costs with 14-gauge if you only expect your building to battle light loads of rain, snow, and wind. However, 12-gauge is more resistant to forces of nature, and it’s the one we use for our certified 42’-50’ Wide Custom Buildings.

26 and 29 Gauge Roofing Sheets

29-gauge panels are about 0.36mm thick, whereas 26-gauge panels are approximately 0.48mm thick. Therefore, 26-gauge is slightly more expensive than 29-gauge. The thickness of the metal you choose may affect how well your roof holds up under severe weather. If you expect much snow, heavy rain, and high wind speeds, take no chances by going for 26-gauge. Thick roofing sheets are also more resistant to bending and denting.

Doors

For your doors, we have both roll-up and walk-in styles. Both come in various sizes. Walk-in doors are perfect for significant human traffic. They do not cost as much and get the job done.

Roll-ups, on the other hand, are perfect where you need a large entrance for automobiles and machinery or any other large items. They are durable (can take repeated opening and closing without fatigue), nearly impossible to break into, and save on space. But it doesn’t have to be “either-or.” You can always use a combination of both doors for maximum efficiency.

Windows

For some natural lighting and giving your building a complete look, you’re going to need some windows. You can have them in any size, on any side of the building, and at any position (left, right or center). It all depends on your preferences. And perhaps the general layout of the area surrounding your building as well as plans for the future. The last thing you want is to place a window only to block the light with another structure.

Just one caveat – if you are extremely precise with your window placement, be sure to consult our design specialists concerning the locations of the legs. We advise against cutting through the structural elements.

Frame-Outs

If you are going to be putting up some walk-in doors and windows, you’ll need frame-outs. These form an outline within which the doors and windows go. They help to keep everything neatly secured and avoid leaks through openings surrounding the doors and windows. Your frame-outs are fully customizable too. You could choose to match the wall, window, or roof colors.

Anchors

You don’t want severe winds blowing away your precious steel buildings simply because you did not anchor it properly. We have unique types of anchors to match any kind of surface on which you might be installing your building.

• Rebar anchors: for your installation on the ground, you could use rebar anchors. However, these anchors cannot stand up to strong winds effectively. And they do not come with a warranty. If your location receives winds strong enough to pose a potential risk, you want to look into the other types of anchors for solutions.
• Mobile Home anchors: if you need more reliable protection for ground installations than what rebar anchors have to offer, this is your perfect fit. We screw mobile home anchors into the ground for safe anchoring. Then, we latch them onto the base rails with bolts to secure the building. If you get the right number of mobile home anchors for your specific building size, you can obtain a wind warranty.
• Asphalt anchors: just like mobile home anchors, asphalt anchors, are latched onto the side of the base rails with bolts. They work by inserting into a hole drilled on the asphalt foundation, but first, you need some grout in the hole. Then you enter the anchor to the right depth, or until it is flush with the base rail. The grout typically cures in about 15 minutes, although they take longer to achieve maximum strength.
• Concrete anchors: work by expanding when tightened, thus locking inside a hole drilled into the concrete slab. You might want to allow a lip of about 3 inches on the concrete slab to avoid chipping during installation. Otherwise, if the foundation is flush with the building, you could purchase L-brackets. Concrete anchors offer adequate protection on concrete foundations, but must never be used on asphalt as they could cause cracking.

Certifications

Our certified 42’-50’ Wide Steel Buildings come with multiple advantages over the non-certified ones. They are stronger, more durable, and reliable. Therefore, they attract better warranties. These are the building types you want to get if there’s local building inspection in your area. Moreover, certified metal buildings don’t take any chances with the forces of nature. We are talking upwards of 30PSF snow loads and 140mph wind.